Seed starting mix consists of compost and other nutrients which promote healthy seed growth. They are available at most gardening and home improvement stores. Tobacco seeds are extremely small (not much larger than a pin prick), so be sure not to sow them too thickly. Allow adequate spacing between seeds to avoid overcrowding. Because tobacco seeds are so small, it’s not advisable to begin them outdoors. Also, their nutrient requirements are different from many other plants, so adding a bit of gravel or special fertilizer designed for tobacco is a good idea. Tobacco seeds require warm temperatures ranging from 75-80 degrees Fahrenheit to properly germinate. If you aren’t growing in a greenhouse, make sure your indoor area meets these temperature requirements. Do not cover the seeds with soil since they need light for germination; covering can slow down and even prevent germination from taking place. Seeds should begin to germinate in 7-10 days. [3] X Research source
Be extra careful when watering because the force of the water can uproot the freshly emerging tobacco seedlings and cause them to die. [4] X Research source If possible, water the seedlings from the bottom. If you used a flower pot with holes in the bottom, set the pot on top of a tray of water. Leave it there for a few seconds so that the water is absorbed by the soil. This will water the seedling without wetting the leaves.
Transplanting seedlings to a larger container will allow them to grow a strong and healthy root system. To see if your seedlings are the right size, try grasping them. If you can easily pinch them between your thumb and index finger, they are ready for transplanting. If they are still too small, allow the germination process to continue until they have reached the right size. Transplanting tobacco plants bare-root (without soil) directly from the seedling pot to the garden is an easier method, as it only involves one transplantation. However, once planted, the bare-rooted plant can go into “transplant shock” where some or most of its largest leaves turn yellow and wilt. After a week, the tobacco plant will begin to flourish once more, but avoiding transplant shock altogether will save you a week of waiting as the potted plant will begin growing immediately once transplanted.
If your plant begins to look yellow or look stunted, another dose of fertilizer may be needed. Do so sparingly, however, since over-fertilization while in pots may burn the plants roots or lead to overgrown, spindly plants. [5] X Research source
Lack of sun will result in spindly plants, poor growth, and thin leaves. This may not be problematic if you intend on planting tobacco for cigar wrapper use, since growing tobacco under shade can create desirable leaf characteristics. [6] X Research source Also test the pH levels of your garden. Tobacco plants need to be planted in moderately acidic soil, otherwise they won’t flourish. The soil itself should have a pH of 5. 8. Poor growth and some growth disorders may occur if the soil pH is 6. 5 or higher. [7] X Research source Avoid preparing your garden on soil that is infested with diseases and nematodes. Nematodes are parasitic worms which feed on tobacco and are extremely difficult to exterminate once infestation occurs.
Tobacco plants are “heavy feeders,” meaning they will deplete the nutrients in the soil in about 2 years. To counteract this, employ a 2 year rotation in your growing space by planting for 2 years in a different location and waiting 1 year before transferring it back to its original location. [8] X Research source Rather than having an empty garden plot, you could rotate tobacco with plants that are not susceptible to common soil-borne pests, like corn or soybeans. [9] X Trustworthy Source PubMed Central Journal archive from the U. S. National Institutes of Health Go to source
Keep the plants well watered without making the soil soggy. If your garden area may experience drought, consider installing an irrigation system. This will prevent the soil from becoming excessively dry, which can then hinder tobacco growth. [10] X Research source If you expect a few days of light drizzles or rain, you can water even less frequently. The structure of the tobacco plant’s leaves enables the plant to collect and funnel the water down to the base of the plant. [11] X Research source
Over-fertilizing is a serious concern, as it can cause damaging salt accumulation. The application amount will depend largely on the grade of the fertilizer, the natural fertility of the soil, losses of nutrients due to leaching, and other subjective factors. Consult your fertilizer’s directions for the most optimal usage. It is recommended that you apply the fertilizer several times. Once the tobacco begins to flower, there should be no need to fertilize further.
The terminal bud is the most prominent and is typically located at the very top of the stem. [14] X Research source The top can be removed by simply breaking or cutting it off, preferably before any flowers open. Soon after the top is removed, axillary buds or suckers will develop at each leaf. Remove these by hand as well, otherwise they will reduce the tobacco’s yield and quality.
Tobacco roots grow quickly and the root structure is quite large, with thousands of small hair-like feeder roots that grow close to the soil surface. Be careful when tilling or hoeing, as penetrating the soil too deep can damage the roots. After 3-4 weeks from planting, heavy tilling should be stopped and only light scrapings to control weeds should be done.
Tobacco is subject to infestation by many different bugs and diseases. The rotation process should help reduce the likelihood of infestation, but it is no guarantee. If you still find your tobacco to be infested, many gardening and home improvement stores sell tobacco-specific pesticides. Brand names include “Nemacor,” “Prowl,” and “Admire. " Keep in mind that some pesticides are specifically geared towards insect control on young plants, while others just kill fungus. Find a pesticide which is most suitable to your situation.
Stalks should be cut about 3-4 weeks after topping. The lower leaves will be partially deteriorated at this time. If you remove the leaves in the field, there should be 4 or 5 harvests at intervals of 1-2 weeks, starting with the lower leaves. The first harvest should start soon after topping and when the leaves show a slight yellowing. Flowers will inhibit the growth of your leaves and will compete for sunlight; removing them is important for obtaining the broadest tobacco leaves possible. You will need to keep the leaves intact because they will be hanged during the curing process. Curing is necessary because it prepares the leaves for consumption; the process produces various compounds in the leaf which give cured tobacco its hay, tea, rose oil, or fruity aromatic flavor. Curing also contributes to the tobacco’s “smoothness” when consumed.
Be sure to provide adequate space between the stalks to allow for satisfactory drying of the leaves. Proper curing should take a few weeks in order to achieve good quality. Tobacco that cures too fast will be green and will likely not have good aroma or flavor. Leaves that cure too slow may develop mold or rot. Be sure to monitor your tobacco leaves closely for these signs and adjust your temperature/humidity accordingly. If curing leaves on the stalk, remove the leaves from the stalk once curing has completed. A building that can be opened and closed as needed to control the humidity and drying rate is ideal. Some producers of homegrown tobacco have built curing facilities and may offer them for sale. [17] X Research source Air curing tobacco is primarily reserved for cigar use. Tobacco can also be cured using fire, the sun, or can be flue-cured. Fire-cured tobacco typically takes between 10-13 weeks and is used to make pipe tobacco and chewing tobacco. Sun-cured and flue-cured tobacco is used in cigarettes.
Aging will not occur if the temperature and moisture content is not perfect. If the tobacco is too dry, it will not age; if it is too moist, it will rot. Unfortunately, the proper temperature and humidity vary widely and will require some experimentation on your part. Monitor your leaves closely during the aging process to ensure that they remain moist, yet rot free. Aging is not an exact science and will require impromptu adjustments when necessary. [18] X Research source Aging your tobacco leaves is optional, but know that un-aged tobacco is often harsh and lacks good flavor.
