Indeterminate tomatoes can be ideal for indoor gardens. Unlike determinate varieties, they will naturally climb and need a cage, trellis, or stake. But they’ll continue to grow and produce fruit all season long. If you are looking for a variety of tomato that will bear a lot of fruit and ripen quickly, choose a plum or cherry indeterminate. Indeterminate tomatoes aren’t compact and need more space than determinates, though. If your space is limited, try smaller, dwarf determinate varieties. These should fruit over a 4-6 week period. Heirloom indeterminates include Pink Ping Pong, Siberia, Silvery Fir Tree, Tommy Toe, and Yellow Pear. Hybrid indeterminates include Micro Tom, Orange Pixie Tomato, Patio, Red Robin, Small Fry, Tiny Tim, and Totem. [2] X Research source Determinate cherry tomatoes include Washington Cherry and Gold Nugget. Hybrid determinates include Cherries Jubilee and Terenzo Hybrid.
Sow the seeds 60-80 days before you intend to harvest your tomatoes. If you don’t have seed trays, you can use plastic yogurt containers or cans. If you are planting the seeds in a used container, clean the container with a 1:10 bleach:water solution.
Immediately after planting the seeds, cover your seedlings with a lid or a sheet of plastic wrap—this will prevent the soil from drying out. Move the cells to a warm location. Throughout the germination, maintain a daytime soil temperature between 70 to 80℉ (21 to 27℃). If you can not heat the space to at least 70℉, consider purchasing a heat mat or placing the plant cells in a sunny location. Everyday, lift up the lid and water the seeds as needed. [3] X Research source
Artificial light sources should be placed a few inches from the tops of the seedlings. As the plants grow, you will need to adjust the height of the lamps. If you are keeping your plants on a windowsill or in front of a window, rotate them frequently to ensure that every side is exposed to light. [4] X Research source
Remove the seedlings from their cells without breaking the roots. Hold the seedling between two fingers and place your palm over the soil. Flip the cell upside down and gently tap the bottom of the cell until the seedling emerges. Loosen up the roots by “tickling” the outer roots. Bury the seedling up to the little fuzzy hairs at the base of the plant. These fuzzy hairs will become roots. Water the seedling generously after transplant. [5] X Research source
Allowing the soil to dry out completely will yield rough-bottom tomatoes. [6] X Research source
You can set your lights on a timer. [7] X Research source
Use a fertilizer that is high in phosphorous. Follow the instructions on the product. [8] X Research source
If you are using a single stake or a single-string trellis, you will train the main stem. Attach the stem to the support device with twine every six to eight inches. Tie the twine in a loose knot to avoid damaging the plant. As suckers grow (vines that appear between the main stem and branches) prune them by snapping them off with your fingers at the joint. If you are using a cage or multi-string trellis, you will begin by training the main stem. Place a cage over the plant while it is small – it is harder to get cages over mature plants. Tie the main stem to the support device with twine every six to eight inches. Allow the first three or four suckers that appear to remain on the plant. Train these suckers in the same manner—tie the suckers to the trellis or cage every six to eight inches as they grow. As new suckers appear, prune them. [9] X Research source
Directing a fan towards your plants to mimic the wind. Tapping or shake the main stem of each plant gently with your finger. Pollinating the plants by hand with a paintbrush or cotton swab. You can gently rub these on the flowers, distributing pollen to each.
To pick the tomato, grasp it near its stem and twist it until it snaps off. [10] X Research source