Sheetrock will cost just a few dollars per sheet for the 1/2-inch (1. 27 cm) thickness. This is the average thickness, which works well for most uses. Haul the sheetrock home flat, for example in the bed of a pickup truck, so it doesn’t break or bend while transporting. If you must store the sheets for more than a few days, store them flat and on top of each other so they do not warp or get their corners broken.
Drywall can be installed using nails or screws. With nails you end making larger “divots” because the hammer face is large. These are easily filled later, but require just a little more patience when taping. Screws are the “instrument-of-choice” for professionals these days. No professional drywall installer leaves home without a screw gun. You might also consider getting a drywall foot-lift. Your drywall is usually installed 1/2-inch (1. 27 cm) above the ground. A lift, or a drywall hammer in a pinch, will help you prop up the drywall as you nail it to the studs.
Mark the ceiling joist centers on the top plate (to save much cursing). Always start from a corner when hanging. Never start from the center and hang outwards. Start from one corner and move in a straight perpendicular line. Once you have one row finished, move on to the next row.
Be sure to install the drywall perpendicular to its framing, whether you’re working the ceiling or walls. Because of how drywall is constructed, its strength (dimensional strength bias) runs along the length. This means that it is best to hang it perpendicular, not vertically, for a stronger final product.
You may need to cut the drywall into a less regular shape, to fit it around an air vent, for example. Use the same process as you regularly would, taking care to cut off little by little instead of making one big cut. Remember, you can always cut off more later, but you can’t put more back on after cutting too much off.
Remember to start from one (top) corner and work on only one row before moving on to the next row. Butt the bottom sheets up to the top pieces on the walls that you have just hung. They should be close to one another, but a little space is okay: You are going to tape and mud the joints later, so you do not have to worry about getting a perfect specimen right away.
Glue studs before hoisting the sheetrock into place Gun in four or five screws on a stud, hitting each stud that’s behind the sheetrock. (To drive screws with the gun running, don’t be gentle — punch them in. ) Cut around windows, doors, fixtures, and other obstacles. If you have an obstacle that you don’t know how to work around, consult a contractor. Check all the screws or nails with a drywall knife to make sure none are sticking out. (Every one you miss will have to be driven in or removed when you’re taping, which will make you very grouchy. )
Remember—it’s always easier to add more compound than to remove it if you put on too much. [7] X Expert Source Ryan OwsianyDrywall & Painting Specialist Expert Interview. 20 May 2021.
