It’s also wise to discuss the project with your neighbors. If the fence is on an adjoining property line, you may be able to split the costs 50/50.
If you just want a decorative fence, measure the length of the side of your yard you want to fence. If you want an enclosed fence, measure the total area and the length of each side. If you want a prefabricated fence, measure a single panel before buying. Mark off this distance along your planned fence line and stake the position of each fence panel. You’ll end up setting fence posts at each stake, aligning them with the twine line and mounding soil around them above ground level.
If you’re buying a pre-fabricated fence, take your measurements to the store and shop around for possibilities.
Gate posts and corner posts are usually larger than the rest.
Alternatively, you can paint on just the below-ground portions in advance, to reduce mess during installation. Treat the rest with an airless sprayer once the fence is complete. Follow all safety instructions on the preservative label. Copper naphthenate can irritate skin, eyes, and lungs.
It’s a good idea to place the dirt you remove on a tarp, so you’ll be able to keep it in an even pile for putting it back in and securing the post. Remove any large rocks and roots from the hole. If necessary, cut large roots free. If you’re going to be digging a lot of holes or setting a lot of posts, consider renting a gas-powered hole digger. This machine requires a strong helper and close attention to safety precautions to avoid injury.
Pea-sized landscaping gravel, often just called “pea gravel” is usually the most affordable and effective type of gravel for the job.
Instead of filling the holes back up with soil, you can mix up a small batch of concrete and use that to fill in above the gravel. For an even easier time, there’s a variety of concrete specifically for fence posts, which can be added dry to the hole and soaked with a hose to allow it to set up quickly and easily. Brace the post plumb before filling by using 1" x 4" boards (4’ to 6’ long), staking, and screws or duplex nails.
If you do use concrete, you still want to have a gentle slope away from the post. Fill it halfway with concrete and ensure that the post is still level when you install. Let the concrete cure properly, then fill the rest of the hole with dirt.
Tie twine to a corner or end post, about 6 inches (15 cm) from the ground. Stretch the twine taut to the position of the next corner or end post. Affix it to a stake at the same height to use as a reference.
Before seating each one, double-check the precise distance between posts with a tape measure.
If you’re cutting your own panels or fence slats, install cross-beams with wood-screws between each set of fence posts. You can either use a crossing “X” pattern, or flat beams parallel to the ground, depending on what you’re going for. Cut fence panels of the appropriate height for your fence. If you’re installing a pre-fab fence, most panels will be quite large, but you’ll need to install a post between every panel, meaning that you might need to install more posts as you work. You can either install a post, attach the panel and support it while you dig the next post, or go around and install all the posts before you start inserting the panels. Brace recently installed posts during this process to ensure adequate panel support while the post fill cures or sets.
