Read the Instructions
If the idea of enjoying audio outside at home appeals to you, go for it; pick up a set of outdoor-rated (weatherproof) speakers. This type of speaker installation can seem daunting, but it’s not as difficult as it sounds.
Before you start drilling holes or running wires, read the product’s instructions. Manufacturers typically provide pertinent information along with a bracket mounting kit. After giving the manual a good scan, locate some positions for consideration.
Select the Mounting Locations
Placing speakers under roof eaves or patio overhangs offers protection against the sun, wind, and rain. Another benefit is having less wire to run and disguise—important if you prefer a blended, seamless look to connected equipment.
Keep in mind a few things as you scout the available space:
Confirm the speakers can be mounted securely to a solid material (such as wood, brick, stone, or concrete) and not to siding, gutters, or thin drywall. This reduces the chance of a speaker loosening or falling over time. Position the speakers up high (out of finger reach, 8 to 10 feet) and about 10 feet apart. Angle the speakers down slightly. This focuses the sound toward listeners and not neighbors. It also assists with water runoff to prevent pooling on the speaker surfaces.
Test the Speakers
Test the outdoor speakers before mounting them, if possible. Location and positioning matter in terms of performance. All a test takes is temporarily setting up the speakers and running cables through an open door to your equipment inside. If the sound is perfect, mount away.
Add a Volume Control Box
Unless you like going inside the house each time you want to turn the music volume outside up or down, consider a volume control box. Make this decision first because it can change where you drill holes to run the audio wires. It can also affect the overall amount of wire needed.
A volume control box is easy to connect between the speakers and receiver/amplifier. The same considerations exist if you plan to install a speaker B switch or a separate speaker selector switch.
Buy the Right Wire and Plenty of It
Make sure you have enough wire of the proper gauge. If the estimated distance is 20 feet or less, 16 gauge should be fine. Otherwise, consider using thicker gauges, especially if the speakers are the low impedance kind.
It’s the total distance traveled that counts and not a straight line from one component to another; all the little twists and corners count. Factor in some slack, too. When in doubt or if the numbers are too close to call, go for the thicker gauge wire.
Drill the Holes
If you have conveniently located attic vents, push the wire through and toward the area closest to the receiver/amplifier. If not, or if going through the attic proves to be more trouble than it’s worth, drill a small hole in the exterior wall. Don’t run wire through windows or doors because that can lead to damage. Make things easier on yourself by choosing a drill spot that is easily accessible on both sides.
Run the Wires
Run the wires from the speakers to the receiver/amplifier. Use banana plugs for the outdoor speakers if a compatible connection exists. Banana plugs limit the amount of exposed wire and are often more reliable and easier to manage than bare wires.
Once everything is connected, test the system and connections to make sure everything works properly, especially if you’ve opted for a volume control box, speaker B switch, or a separate speaker selector switch.
Leave some slack in the wire to guide water away from the points of contact. If the length leading to a speaker is taut, water can flow back into the speaker’s terminals and cause potential damage; it’s the same with holes drilled in walls. Adjust the wires so that they create a U-shaped dip. Water will follow down and safely drip off the bottom.
Caulk the Openings
Finish up the installation project with some silicone-based caulk. You need to seal all the drill holes on both sides to maintain the house’s insulation and keep unwanted bugs and pests outside.
