Use a pencil to place a light mark at the center of each stud. If your stud finder readings are uncertain or erratic, just move the stud finder up or down on the wall a few inches and run it across the stud again.
The chalk line should indicate the center of each stud. Mark these chalk lines as high as you’re planning to build the wall, whether that’s 6 feet (1. 8 m) or 20 feet (6. 1 m).
If you don’t already own a carpenter’s level, you can purchase one at any hardware store or home-supply store.
Make sure the boards are straight, flat, and free of knot hole cavities before purchasing them. Avoid using warped boards. Keep in mind that lumber sizes are measured before being sanded smooth. A 1 in × 6 in (2. 5 cm × 15. 2 cm) will actually measure about 0. 75 in × 5. 5 in (1. 9 cm × 14. 0 cm).
Make all cuts outdoors, so that you avoid making a mess in the house or shed that you’re working in.
For example, if your wall is 20 feet (6. 1 m) wide and your shiplap siding is only 15 feet (4. 6 m), you’ll need to cut an additional 5 ft (1. 5 m) section of shiplap to finish the row. Even if your boards would fully span the width of your wall, consider staggering your shiplap anyway. It adds visual interest to the wall.
This adhesive looks like a tube of caulk, and can be dispensed with a metal caulk gun. Check the inventory at your local hardware store or home supply store. Make sure that the tube of adhesive that you purchase will adhere to all materials (i. e. it should say “All Materials” on the packaging) and is suited for indoor use.
If the board is not horizontally level, you’ll need to lift out the board, then install spacers beneath the low side to elevate it. [8] X Research source You can start applying shiplap either at the top or at the bottom of your wall. If you start at the bottom, gravity will work for you. If you start at the top, you’ll have to prevent each board from falling before you nail it in place. It’s best to start at the top if your ceiling or floor is uneven so you can correct imperfections at the bottom with a baseboard.
Be sure to place the nails in the part of the board that will be covered by the board above it—typically the top 1–2 in (2. 5–5. 1 cm). [10] X Expert Source Andrew PetersArchitecture & Construction Specialist Expert Interview. 24 November 2020. If you choose to use a compressed-air nail gun, you’ll need to purchase, borrow, or rent an air compressor and hose. All of these materials should be available at your local hardware store.
If you’re installing shiplap from the top of the wall down, you’ll need to carefully hold the nickels in place on the bottom of the board as you line up the next plank. Alternatively, you could use scrap plexiglass pieces cut into strips, stacked to the desired thickness, and glued together as spacers. These are easier to pull out and more stable than nickels. If you’re installing actual shiplap siding, skip this step. The shiplap boards will lock into one another and you won’t need to space them out.
Keep in mind that, if the wall you’re installing shiplap on is not exactly square, (e. g. if part of the shiplap will be adjacent to a stairway), you’ll need to cut and angle the shiplap boards to accommodate these measurements.
At this point, you can remove the nickels that you set between the 2 boards. Pry them out with a butter knife or pencil, and set them on top of the board you just installed, in anticipation of installing subsequent boards.
If you’re staggering your shiplap, be aware that the spot where the staggered boards butt together will not be the same from level to level. If 1 board sticks out more than another and the meeting place is not on a stud, you can place a small piece of wood behind the 2 boards where they meet. Screw both butt ends to the piece of wood with finish screws to make them level and even with each other. Once you’ve installed the final siding board, you can use a damp rag to wipe off any remaining chalk lines above the shiplap.
If you chose to stagger shiplap boards, run a link of caulk along the seams where the 2 staggered boards meet. You can also cover the nail or screw holes with putty that matches the color of the wood (or paint). Both caulk and putty can be found at any local hardware store.
