You should examine your guinea pig on the floor or a very low table. This way, if they get away they will not injure themselves falling. Handle your guinea pig gently, but keep a firm hold around their chest and shoulders. Spread their back legs apart to examine their genitals. [2] X Research source The distance between the genitals and anus is greater in males than females. [3] X Research source The genital opening of male guinea pigs is shaped like a circular dot, while the genital opening of females forms a Y-shape. [4] X Research source For a decisive test, feel just above the genitals. In a female, this area will be soft, but in a male, you will feel a bone. Push in and up (towards the guinea pig’s head) from this point. In a male, this will make the penis come out, whereas you will see no change in a female.
If you already have an older guinea pig, getting a baby of the same sex is a good choice. The adult will not feel as threatened by a baby and its dominance will not be challenged. Its best to neuter males before introducing them to females; however, neutered or not, never place more than one male in a group with females. They will fight over the female’s attention. Adult females tend to get along more readily than adult males. Understand that if you house two normal (not fixed) guinea pigs of different sex (one male and one female) together, you will end up with babies. Pregnancy is extremely dangerous for both moms and babies (1/4 of sows die as a result of having babies), so avoid this at all costs.
A spacious cage is key to males living in harmony. Provide them with their own space to eat, hide, sleep, and play — provide two of everything. Ensure that hiding houses have two entrances so that one guinea pig cannot trap the other. [5] X Research source
Placing the new guinea pig directly in the cage with a new one can cause undue stress as they must be eased into a new environment, and their presence may cause the current pig to become territorial. In addition to the emotional concerns, many guinea pig illnesses, which are easily spread at pet and department stores, can incubate for long periods. You need to make sure your new guinea shows no signs of sickness before introducing them to your old guinea. [6] X Research source Put the guinea pigs in separate cages next to each other. Position the cages in such a way that the guinea pigs cannot see each other but can smell and hear one another. [7] X Research source
Find a new territory where neither guinea pig has been before, but that is a secluded and quiet place where both guinea pigs will feel safe. On the floor of a closed-off and small room, such as a bathroom, is a good option. [8] X Research source Put veggies, treats, and hay in the center of the area to distract the guinea pigs from fighting as they get accustomed to one another’s presence. [9] X Research source In case the guinea pigs get physically aggressive, you should have old towels on hand. You can use towels to restrain the guinea pigs while avoiding getting scratched yourself. [10] X Research source If it goes well, and the guinea pigs have not fought for over two hours, you will be able to introduce them to the same cage. Ensure that the cage has been thoroughly cleaned, and all the toys re-arranged to make it seem like a new cage.
Make adjustments to the cage. Guinea pigs are territorial, so make sure your cage has enough space. As a general rule, a cage between 7. 5 and 10. 5 square feet is recommended for two guinea pigs. More room is preferred, and if you’re housing three or more guinea pigs aim for at least 13 square feet. Rearrange and wash the cage so it will smell new and feel more like neutral territory for both guinea pigs. [11] X Research source Gently rub hay from the old cage on the new guinea pig so he smells more like the rest of the herd. [12] X Research source
Mounting or jumping over one another can lead to aggression if one guinea pig resists or retaliates. Keep an eye on this behavior, but do not intervene unless it leads to fighting. [13] X Research source Squealing, chasing, and teeth chattering are common in the first few weeks. Guinea pigs may also gently nip one another if annoyed, and such behaviors are necessary to establish boundaries between the guinea pigs. Only intervene if the guinea pigs are biting hard enough to inflict wounds. [14] X Research source If one guinea pig is constantly chattering his teeth, this is a sign of aggression that could grow serious. Watch carefully, but do not separate unless blood is drawn. [15] X Research source Raised hair, especially around the neck, and feet stamping are signs guinea pigs are preparing to fight. This can occur but watch carefully. Do not separate unless blood is drawn. [16] X Research source
Bottom sniffing and nudging is a guinea pig’s way of greeting a new companion. This is normal and non-threatening behavior. Your guinea pigs may also want to establish their territory by dragging their bottoms across the ground or raising their heads up on occasion to expression dominance, behaviors that are normal during the first few weeks. [18] X Research source Guinea pigs sometimes engage in a behavior called rumble strutting. This is when they walk with their hips swaying and their fur puffed out while making a rumbling sound. This is an expression of dominance and unless it’s followed up by aggressive gestures it’s usually a normal part of establishing the pecking order. [19] X Research source Don’t be afraid of squealing sounds. Although guinea pigs can make shrill noises that may sound like pain, it is just their way of saying that they submit to the more dominant pig.
Act quickly. Guinea pigs have sharp teeth and are capable of inflicting serious harm on one another. If you notice aggressive fighting, separate them immediately. Guinea pigs can cause permanent injury and disabilities to one another if left unchecked. [20] X Research source Do not intervene with your bare hands. An irate guinea pig can cause injuries to you that are serious enough to warrant medical attention. Cover the animal with an old towel or rag or use heavy gloves while separating them. [21] X Research source Separate the guinea pigs after the fight. Keep them in different cages, but in the same room so that they can see, smell, hear, and talk to each other. Continue handling them with gloves or a towel for a few hours after the fight, as they can remain skittish and aggressive for a while after a confrontation. [22] X Research source Reintroduce them slowly, once again introducing them on a neutral ground with treats and food as distractions. Depending on the severity of the fight, wait a few hours to a few days. Keep protective gear on hand in case the fight resumes. [23] X Research source
Do not feel as if this is your fault. Nature simply works this way, and guinea pigs have different personalities. Some may be more independent and aggressive and therefore harder to introduce to a companion. Even when you do all the right things, guinea pigs are sometimes simply not compatible with one another. [24] X Research source If the first introduction leads to an excess of fighting, you can restart the introduction process, beginning again with the quarantine period. This gives the guinea pigs time to cool off and forget any previous hostilities. If guinea pigs are simply not getting along, you can always keep them in separate cages where they can smell, see, and hear one another but cannot physically interact. They get the benefits of some social interaction but without the stress of a hostile environment. [25] X Research source
